Almudena lies on the southern edge of Cusco, where the city begins to thin out into the long valley that runs toward Lake Huacarpay and beyond. The church and cemetery there make the area feel more local than touristic: families visit on All Saints' Day in early November, bringing flowers and food, and the whole district seems to slow down into a quiet, respectful day.
The old road southeast out of Cusco is one of the great underrated rides in the region. It follows the Huatanay and then the Vilcanota valleys, past Tipón's Inca terraces and water channels, the huge pre-Inca site of Pikillaqta and the church at Andahuaylillas, whose richly painted interior has earned the nickname of the Sistine Chapel of the Andes. Roads are generally good, with long open stretches and some rough patches, and there are fewer tourists than on the Sacred Valley route.
Riding out from Almudena involves rough city streets at first, with potholes, speed bumps called rompemuelles, and heavy minibus traffic. Be patient; once you clear the outskirts the valley opens, with fields of maize and barley, eucalyptus trees along the roads, and mountains on both sides. Dogs, children and farm animals appear without warning on the verge, and local drivers overtake in ways that visitors might find alarming. Weather in the rainy season, from December to March, can bring landslides and mud, and the afternoon showers are heavy.
Fuel is easier in Cusco than in the valley, so fill the tank before leaving, and bring water and snacks. Small villages along the way offer grilled meat and soup at roadside stalls, and the church at Andahuaylillas is worth the stop for the painted ceiling alone.
Take the road early, when the air is cold and clear, and return before the afternoon cloud builds over the peaks.