Alma is a small harbour at the edge of Fundy National Park, and it is one of the best places in the world to watch the sea go away. The tide in the Bay of Fundy rises and falls by twelve metres or more near here, and at low water the fishing boats sit on the muddy bottom of the harbour, tilted on their keels and tied to the wharf with long ropes. A few hours later the water returns and lifts them, and the whole village looks as if it were breathing.
The village is a working fishing port, with lobster boats, a small fleet and the smell of salt and bait, and in recent years it has also become a tourist stop. Shops sell local crafts and seafood, and a bakery is celebrated across the province for its sticky buns, which you will see travellers queuing for, with sticky fingers and satisfied faces. Lobster is cooked and sold at the wharf, and a plate of fresh haddock or scallops in one of the restaurants is a fine way to end the day.
Behind the village is Fundy National Park, a rugged area of forested hills, rivers and waterfalls on the coast, where the Acadian forest, a mix of red spruce, maple and birch, meets the sea. Trails lead to waterfalls such as Dickson Falls, where a boardwalk threads through a mossy ravine, and to quiet beaches at Point Wolfe, where a covered bridge crosses the river. The park has a pass requirement for entry, and a scenic road runs through it, with views of the bay. Moose, bear, deer and porcupines live in the forest, and whales are sometimes spotted offshore.
The ride to Alma along Route 114 from Sussex or from the north is a pleasant one, with rolling bends, forest, farms and views of the bay. The surface varies, with some rough sections, and the road climbs and descends over wooded ridges, so you need to keep your attention on the bends. Fog is common, particularly in early summer, and cold air can come off the water even in July. The best time is late summer and early autumn, when the weather is more settled and the crowds have thinned.
Alma has fuel at its small station, a few shops and several places to eat, so it is a practical stop. For anything larger, Moncton is the nearest city, and Sussex is a smaller option inland. A short distance north, the Hopewell Rocks, the flowerpot formations on the shore, are a popular stop and a good addition to the day, as long as you check the tide times.