Bad Wiessee lies on the western shore and Tegernsee town on the eastern side, with the mountains of the Mangfall range dropping steeply into the water behind them. It is a place where Munich's money goes for the weekend, and the villas and boat houses show it, but it is also a real valley with cows, hay meadows and a long history.
That history starts with the Benedictine monastery, founded in the eighth century, which still stands on the lake's eastern shore. Its church towers and the former abbey, later a residence of the Bavarian dukes, give Tegernsee town a calm and slightly grand appearance. The brewery in the old buildings serves beer and Bavarian dishes in a courtyard in the open air. The writer Ludwig Thoma lived and wrote here, and the Tegernsee valley has been a retreat for artists and royals ever since the nineteenth century.
Riding out of here is a pleasure. A lake-side road leads south through Rottach-Egern and on to Kreuth, where the valley narrows and the road climbs through spruce forest to the Austrian border at the Achenpass, and on toward the Achensee. Bends are smooth and well graded, and the surface is generally excellent, though weekend traffic, cyclists and sightseers can fill the road, so early starts are far better than midday. Bavarian and Tyrolean authorities pay attention to motorcycle noise, so keep the revs reasonable through villages. Autumn is gorgeous, with golden larches and sharp clear air.
Bad Wiessee has fuel, and it sits only a few kilometres from Tegernsee, so this is the sensible place to top up before heading into the hills. Cafés and bakeries in both towns serve strong coffee and sweet pastries. The weather in the Alps is moody, with afternoon storms in summer and snow on the heights from October, so look at the sky before setting out. If the day is clear, take the cable car on the Wallberg for a view across the whole lake.