All'Acqua is the last place before the Nufenen on the Ticino side, and the sort of place that makes you want to stop even though there is hardly anything there. A few stone buildings, an inn with a restaurant and a small chapel stand at the head of the Bedretto valley, at about 1,600 metres, with the long slope of the pass rising behind. The air is cold and clear, and the light has a hard brilliance that makes the grey stone look almost white.
The Bedretto valley is one of the least visited in Ticino. It runs north-west from Airolo in a long, narrow trough, and its villages, Bedretto, Ossasco and All'Acqua, are small and mostly seasonal. The people speak Italian, in a dialect that is broad and soft, and the architecture is stone, dark timber and slate, built to withstand heavy snow. In winter the snow is deep and the upper valley is quiet, so it keeps its isolation for most of the year. The Ticino river, which flows south to Lake Maggiore and the Po, begins in the high lakes above, and it is a clear, cold stream beside the road.
The road from Airolo to All'Acqua is a delight, a smooth, gently climbing route through meadows and larch woods, with views of steep valley sides and a stream at the bottom. Beyond the hamlet, the road begins the main climb to the Nufenen, with long, graceful bends that rise above the tree line and into the rock. The surface is excellent, and traffic is light except on summer weekends. For a rider, it is a warm-up for the pass and a good place to check your clothing before the cold of the top.
Wildlife is plentiful. Marmots whistle from the rocks above the village, chamois move along the cliffs and golden eagles circle in the thermals. In June the meadows are bright with flowers, and in autumn the larches turn the slope gold. Cows graze on the pasture, and dairy farmers make a hard mountain cheese in the huts, which you may find on sale at the hotel or in a shop in the lower valley.
The restaurant at All'Acqua serves simple, hearty food, such as polenta, cheese and cured meats, and the coffee is strong. Fuel is not available, and the nearest station is in Airolo, about twelve kilometres below, so fill the tank before the climb. The Nufenen can close at short notice, so ask at the hotel if you are unsure of the conditions.