Aljezur is two villages in one. The old part climbs a steep hill under the ruins of a Moorish castle, while the newer part spreads along the valley floor beside a small river. The castle, a short walk up cobbled lanes, is a modest ruin, but the view from its walls over the valley, the whitewashed roofs and the fields running to the coast is excellent. The town is the capital of the west Algarve coast and sits in the middle of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park.
What makes Aljezur special is its position. A few kilometres to the west the Atlantic crashes against long beaches, such as Arrifana and Bordeira, which draw surfers all year. Inland, the hills are covered in cork oak, eucalyptus and wild herbs. The local farmers grow sweet potatoes in the sandy soil, and the batata-doce de Aljezur is a regional specialty, appearing in cakes, pastries and even ice cream. The place feels more rural and less polished than the central Algarve, and the people are proud of that.
The N120 runs through Aljezur and carries you north and south along the coast, with long gentle bends, pine woods, and glimpses of the sea. The side roads to the beaches are narrower, with tight corners and sand blown across the surface, so go carefully. Summer weekends bring caravans and holiday traffic, and the Atlantic wind is common. Winter can be wet but is often mild, and spring brings wildflowers across the hills. If you can, ride in the early evening, when the light along the coast is at its best.
The town has nearly six thousand people, so you will find fuel, supermarkets and restaurants, and it makes a sound base for a day on the west coast. Marmelete, to the east, is a smaller village in the hills. Seafood and grilled fish are the main attractions on the menu, along with the sweet potato desserts. Sit for a while in the old town, take in the view, and enjoy the unhurried pace.