Ålesund spreads across a string of islands at the mouth of the fjords on Norway's north-west coast, and it looks unlike any other town in the country because a single night in January 1904 burned it down. A wind-whipped fire destroyed most of the wooden town, leaving thousands homeless, and the rebuilding took only a few years. The architects who did the work were young and fresh from study abroad, so the centre came out in stone and Art Nouveau, with towers, turrets and curling ornaments in every street. German Emperor Wilhelm, who had holidayed in the area, is remembered here for helping with relief supplies.
The best view is from Aksla, the hill behind the town, which you can reach by climbing a long flight of steps or, more sensibly in riding boots, by the road. From the top you see the islands laid out like a map, the harbour full of fishing boats, and the white edge of the Sunnmøre Alps to the east. The town lives off the sea, and salted and dried cod has been exported from here for generations, so the old warehouses and quays are part of the story rather than scenery.
Riding out of Ålesund involves tunnels and bridges, because the islands are linked by them, including an undersea tunnel that dips well below the water. They are well lit and well signed, but they can be damp and cool, and the long ones feel colder than you expect. Once you are out on the open roads toward the fjords the riding improves quickly, with mountain walls, ferry crossings and green valleys, though rain is common and the coast can be windy.
Fuel is plentiful in the city and in the towns nearby such as Hareid, so fill up before the long fjord roads. A bag of fresh shrimp from the quay is the sort of lunch that locals will recommend, and the cafes around the harbour are good places to wait out a shower.