Albuquerque lies in the Rio Grande valley at about 1,500 metres, with the long wall of the Sandia Mountains standing to the east, and it is the biggest city in New Mexico. On Route 66 it holds a special place, because in 1937 the highway was straightened here, abandoning a long loop through Santa Fe and sending the road directly across the city along Central Avenue. The change shortened the journey by about a hundred miles and made Albuquerque a boomtown for motels, diners and neon, and a good deal of that survives.
Central Avenue, running for miles through town, is the old road, and it passes through a series of neighbourhoods that show the city's mix of cultures. Old Town, near the river, was founded by Spanish colonists in 1706 and has a plaza, an adobe church and a scatter of shops and galleries, while the Nob Hill district has a good run of mid-century signs, bars and cafes. The KiMo Theatre, a pueblo-deco movie palace from 1927, is one of the city's gems. Further along, the road climbs gradually toward the west mesa, with a view across the valley to the volcanoes on the horizon.
The mountains are the great backdrop. The Sandia Peak Tramway, one of the longest aerial tramways in the world, climbs to the crest at over 3,000 metres, and on a clear evening the rock turns watermelon pink, which is what the Spanish name Sandia, meaning watermelon, is said to refer to. The riding in the area is excellent, with good roads east into the mountains and north along the Turquoise Trail, which links old mining towns. In October the city fills with colour for the International Balloon Fiesta, one of the great gatherings of its kind.
Fuel, food and beds are plentiful, and you can eat well here, with New Mexican cuisine built around red and green chile, so be ready for the question of which you want, and answer Christmas if you want both. Summer afternoons can bring thunderstorms in the monsoon season, with sudden downpours and flash floods in the arroyos, and winters are cold but sunny. The high desert sun is strong and the air is dry, so drink water. Spring winds can be fierce. Sunset on the Sandias is a reward after a long day.