The rock of Alamut rises out of the valley like the prow of a ship, and it is easy to see why Hassan-i Sabbah chose it. In 1090 this Ismaili missionary took the castle, reportedly without bloodshed, and made it the headquarters of a movement that would defy empires for over a century and a half. From Alamut he directed a network of fortresses across Persia and Syria, and from here grew the legend of the Assassins, the name that European travellers like Marco Polo attached to the Nizaris, with tales of a hidden paradise garden and young men drugged with hashish. Most historians treat those stories as myth, but they made Alamut famous.
Hassan was a scholar as well as a political leader, and Alamut was renowned for its library. In 1256 the Mongol armies of Hulagu Khan arrived, and the last Nizari ruler surrendered the castle. The Persian historian Juvayni, who accompanied the Mongols, was allowed to inspect the library and saved some works before the rest was destroyed. The fortress was dismantled, though it was later used as a prison.
Today the ruins sit on the summit of the rock above the village of Gazor Khan. A steep stairway leads up from the village, and at the top you can see the remains of walls, cisterns and rooms carved into the stone. Excavation and restoration work has been ongoing, and parts may be covered with scaffolding. The views from the top over the valley, the river and the snow-capped peaks of the Alborz are magnificent.
The valley itself is lovely, with orchards, rice fields and villages, and the Alamut river winding through. It is a cooler, greener world than the dusty plain around Qazvin. The road over the mountains from Qazvin is a highlight of any ride in northern Iran, climbing in a long series of hairpins to a high pass before dropping into the valley. Surfaces are mixed, and weather can change quickly, with snow on the pass from late autumn to spring.
Qazvin, a couple of hours away, has fuel, hotels and restaurants. Gazor Khan has guesthouses and small cafés serving tea and simple meals. Riding in Iran requires a carnet de passages and careful planning, so check current rules, permits and travel advice before setting off.