The Alamut valley lies in the Alborz mountains of northern Iran, in the province of Qazvin, a long, narrow trench of barley fields and walnut trees between steep slopes. The castle stands on a narrow rock spur at around two thousand metres, about the height of a small mountain, and the climb up from the valley is steep and loose, with a few steps cut in the rock. The nearest towns are well away, so reaching it takes a day from Qazvin.
Alamut was the stronghold of the Nizari Ismailis, a branch of Shia Islam, and its first master, Hassan-i Sabbah, took the castle in 1090 and ruled a network of mountain fortresses from it for more than thirty years. Later European writers, including accounts attributed to Marco Polo, turned the story into a legend of drugged young men who were taken to a secret garden and sent out to kill, giving us the word assassin. Historians doubt much of that tale. What is certain is that Alamut was an important centre of learning with a famed library, and that in 1256 the Mongol army under Hulagu besieged it, and the Ismaili ruler surrendered. The Mongols destroyed the castle and much of the library, so little remains but foundations, a few walls, cisterns and a spectacular view over the valley.
The ride is the best part of the visit. From Qazvin the road goes north through a dry plain and climbs into the Alborz by way of the Moalem Kalayeh road, a mountain route with hairpins and long climbs through bare slopes, opening into the green Alamut valley with the lake of Ovan nearby. Roads here can be narrow, with sheer drops, loose gravel and rockfalls, especially after snow or heavy rain. The altitude means that nights are cold even in summer, and snow can close routes from late autumn through spring. The best months are May, June and September.
Fill the tank before you leave Qazvin, a city of several hundred thousand, since stations in the valley are few. Villages sell fresh bread, yoghurt and honey, and you can find simple guesthouses. Carry water and sun protection for the climb, and check conditions with local people before you set out.