Al-Uyun means the springs, and this village in the Al-Ahsa oasis is named for the water that has made life possible here for centuries. Rising from deep aquifers, the springs fed channels that ran through the palm groves and gave Al-Ahsa the reputation of being one of the greenest places in Arabia. Travellers who crossed the desert described the sound of running water and the smell of damp earth as a kind of miracle, and the village still has an air of coolness and shade even when the sun beats down on the surrounding sand.
The oasis was added to the UNESCO list in 2018, and the village is part of the cultural landscape that includes gardens, historic buildings, springs, canals and archaeological sites. Many of the old houses are built of mud brick and palm trunks, and they have thick walls and small windows to keep out the heat. The date palms are tall and bunched, with fruit hanging in heavy clusters, and the ground beneath is planted with vegetables and fodder in the shade.
For a rider, this is a gentle place. The roads in the oasis are good, with light traffic, and run between walls of palms and irrigated fields. Farther out, the highways stretch across gravel plains and sand, with views of low ridges and the occasional camel. The best season is the cooler months, from November to March. In summer, heat is extreme, and strong winds can fill the air with dust.
Julayjilah, the nearest town of any size, is about twelve kilometres away, with fuel and a few shops, and the city of Hofuf has more. Al-Asfar Lake, which gives the ride its second name, is a seasonal body of water on the edge of the desert, and its size varies with rainfall. Dates and coffee are the traditional welcome, and local people are usually friendly and curious about visitors. Ask permission before photographing gardens and homes, and respect any signs that mark private property.