Al Hamra is a town of old mud-brick houses at the foot of the Hajar mountains, and the pale walls and flat roofs of its old quarter blend so completely into the hillside that you can ride past without noticing them. The old town is built of mud, stone and palm trunks, and much of it is a tangle of narrow lanes and tall, windowless walls, where families lived for centuries. A few houses have been restored, and one of them is a small museum showing how people lived, with kitchens, grain stores and stables. The new town lies below, with its shops, mosque and petrol stations, and a modern road runs through it.
Water is the secret of Al Hamra, as of so many Omani villages. A falaj runs through the town, bringing water from the mountain to gardens of date palms, and the sound of running water in a dry land is a pleasure. Nearby is Misfat al Abriyeen, a village of stone houses stacked up a hillside, with narrow lanes and terraced gardens, and it is well worth a visit if you have time.
For riders, Al Hamra matters as the gateway to Jebel Shams, at about 3,000 metres the highest mountain in Oman. The road climbs from the town into the mountains in a long series of bends, with views over canyons and plateaus, and the temperature drops as you rise. The tarmac is good for much of the way, but the last section is gravel and needs care. Rain is rare, but when it comes, it can turn dry riverbeds into torrents, so stay out of wadis if the sky looks threatening. The best season is winter, from November to March, when the days are mild and the air is clear.
Al Hamra has fuel stations, shops and small restaurants, and it is the place to fill the tank and buy water before heading up. Bahla, about sixteen kilometres away, is a larger town with a famous fort, also on the UNESCO list, and has more services. Try a plate of shuwa, meat slow-cooked underground in a spiced marinade, if you can find it, or simpler dishes of rice and chicken. A cup of sweet tea in the shade of the old town is the best way to end the visit.