The Al-Ahsa oasis in eastern Saudi Arabia is a green island in a very large desert. Under the sand lie huge aquifers, and springs rise to the surface to feed an area of about eighty-five square kilometres of date palms, said to be the largest oasis in the world, with perhaps two and a half million trees. It lies not far from the Gulf coast, near the city of Hofuf, and it has been settled for thousands of years, from the Bronze Age through the ancient Dilmun culture and into Islamic times. UNESCO listed it in 2018 as an evolving cultural landscape.
Al-Asfar Lake, the Yellow Lake, lies on the edge of the oasis, a shallow stretch of water that in part collects the drainage from the irrigation system, surrounded by reeds, dunes and a ring of low hills. It looks quiet, almost lonely, with flamingos and herons among the reeds, and changes colour with the light. The label also includes Jawatha, a mosque said to be one of the first in the Gulf region, where tradition holds that Friday prayers were held soon after the Prophet's time, and Al-Oyun village, a settlement named after its springs.
Riding in Saudi Arabia is a matter of heat and distance. The roads are modern and well-surfaced, with long, straight highways through desert and wide dual carriageways around towns. Summer temperatures easily climb above forty-five degrees, which is dangerous to ride in, so the time to visit is from November to March. Mornings and evenings are the best times, when the sun is low and the oasis glows green against the sand. Foreign riders should check the rules on licences, permits and insurance, because they are strict and subject to change.
The oasis is full of small roads between walls of mud brick, with palm groves and irrigation channels, and the shade is welcome. Al Markaz, the nearest town, has a few shops, and Hofuf, the main city, has fuel, hotels and restaurants. The date is the heart of local life, and shops sell many varieties, along with Arabic coffee flavoured with cardamom. Bring water and sun protection, and accept the hospitality, which is generous.