Aktoprak is a pass on one of the least-known mountain crossings in the central Caucasus, a road that links the gorge of the Chegem with the valley of the Baksan and the town of Tyrnyauz, and for a rider it is a quiet reward for those who look beyond the usual route to Elbrus. The name is Karachay-Balkar, and the pass lies in the high, rolling country above the Bylym plateau, where the slopes are open and grassy and the villages are widely scattered. The road crosses the watershed in long gentle bends, with views of dark forest in the valleys and, on clear days, white peaks on the southern horizon.
The landscape is a mix of high pasture and rocky outcrops, with sheep, cattle and horses grazing on the slopes in summer, and the occasional herder's hut and stone enclosure. In the villages nearby, the old Balkar farmsteads, with their heavy stone walls and flat roofs, have survived on the steep slopes. The wild flowers of July and August are remarkable, including gentians, primulas and orchids. Because the pass is not heavily used, you may have long stretches of the road to yourself, with only the sound of the wind and the clink of cowbells.
The condition of the road varies. There are good sections, with newer tarmac, and others where frost heave, potholes and gravel are common, and in some places, the edge of the road is unprotected. Fog can fill the pass in minutes, and rain can create mud and standing water. Landslides and washouts are possible in spring and after storms, so check the situation if you can before setting out. The season is short, typically from June to October, and winter snow can close the road. Take your time, and keep an eye out for livestock.
Tyrnyauz, about twelve kilometres from the pass, is the nearest town of size, and it is a curious place: a Soviet-era mining city, built to extract tungsten and molybdenum, with a faded, half-empty look and a great scar of a quarry above it. It has fuel, shops and cafés, and it is the sensible place to stop before or after the crossing. The village of Bylym, very near the pass, has only the basics.
Pull over where the road crests, and look both ways. The change in the landscape between the two sides is striking.