In the Vakhsh valley of southern Tajikistan, near the city of Bokhtar, once called Qurghonteppa, a low mound of earth in the fields hides the remains of a Buddhist monastery from the seventh and eighth centuries. Excavations at Ajina Tepa, which means the hill of the demons in local tradition, revealed a complex of courtyards, cells, corridors and stupas, built of mud brick and decorated with paintings and clay sculptures. The most spectacular find, uncovered in 1966, was a giant reclining Buddha, around thirteen metres long, depicting the Buddha entering nirvana.
The Buddha was cut into pieces and moved to Dushanbe, where it is now displayed in the National Museum of Antiquities, the largest surviving Buddha statue in Central Asia. The monastery itself, today little more than eroded walls and mounds, belongs to the Silk Roads heritage that Tajikistan has put forward for UNESCO recognition, and its story reflects a time when Buddhism flourished along the trade routes linking India, China and Iran, before the arrival of Islam. Standing among the ruins, with cotton fields around and the mountains in the distance, it is hard to imagine the monks and pilgrims who once lived here.
Riding in southern Tajikistan is an experience in itself. The roads in the Vakhsh valley are mostly flat, with good asphalt on the main routes but potholes and rough patches on smaller roads. Old Soviet cars, trucks, donkey carts and cattle all share the tarmac, and police checkpoints are common. Further south, the Tigrovaya Balka nature reserve protects tugai forests along the Vakhsh and Panj rivers, home to rare animals, though access is restricted. Summers here are extremely hot, often over forty degrees, while spring and autumn are more comfortable.
Bokhtar, a city of tens of thousands, has fuel, shops, markets and restaurants. Fuel quality can vary, so fill up at reputable stations. Tajik food is hearty and generous: plov, rice cooked with meat, carrots and onions, is the national dish, and qurutob, bread soaked in a yoghurt sauce with vegetables, is a local favourite. Green tea is served everywhere, and hospitality is a matter of pride, so expect invitations to share a meal.