Ua Huka is the dry, rugged island of the Marquesas, where the wind blows steadily, the hills are bare and brown, and herds of wild horses graze on the plateau. The island has about six hundred people, living in three villages, Vaipaee, Hane and Hokatu, and its coastline is lined with cliffs, sea caves, and small offshore islets that are important nesting sites for seabirds. The marine area around it is a protected stretch of water, rich in fish, rays and sometimes dolphins.
Riding on Ua Huka is about as modest and as memorable as it gets. A few narrow roads, some concrete and some rough, link the villages and climb across the island's central ridge, and the views over the surf-whipped coast are splendid. Do not expect a big circuit. You are travelling on a very small island with very few vehicles, plenty of wandering horses, goats and chickens, and sudden steep bends. Weather is mostly dry and breezy, with the island lying in the rain shadow of its higher neighbours, though squalls can blow in off the ocean. Getting here normally means a boat from Nuku Hiva, or a small plane, so plan around their timetables.
The island is known for craftsmanship, particularly wood carving and stone sculpture, and the museum in Vaipaee has displays of Marquesan artefacts, tools and carvings, a good place to see how important the arts were to this culture. The islanders carve rosewood and miki miki wood into bowls, tikis and ornaments. Archaeologists have also found petroglyphs and old ceremonial sites in the valleys. Down at the shoreline, birds nest in thousands on the offshore rocks, and the sound of surf in the sea caves is deep and constant.
Practical matters are as simple as the island. A couple of small shops and family guesthouses provide meals, often built on fresh fish, goat, breadfruit and fruit, and fuel is available in very limited amounts for local vehicles, so do not count on it for touring. Carry cash in Pacific francs, a hat and sunscreen, and plenty of water, since the sun on the dry plateau can be harsh. Ask before photographing people and sacred places, and bring a spirit of patience. On Ua Huka the day runs at the speed of the horses.