Ain Qinas is a spring, one of many that bubble up through the oasis of Al-Ahsa, and it is one of the reasons for the place's long life. The water emerges warm from deep rock, at a steady temperature, and has been channelled for centuries into stone-lined pools and a network of canals that irrigate the groves. For people crossing an arid peninsula, this must have seemed like a miracle, and the springs and their surroundings are part of the oasis's World Heritage listing. The site is a pleasant, shaded corner where palm trees lean over the water and the sound of running water is constant.
The wider area has a layered history. The oasis was a trading centre in the ancient world, and it was home in the tenth century to the Qarmatians, a radical Islamic sect who set up their own state here, built a capital and, in 930, famously raided Mecca and carried off the Black Stone, which they held for twenty years before returning it. Later, the Ottomans and the Al Saud family each held it in turn. Nearby Qasr Sahood, a mud-brick fort of a type typical of the region, is part of the story, with thick walls, a watchtower and an old gate.
For a rider, the contrast between the green oasis and the empty desert is the whole point. The roads leading in from the highways are good, and in the oasis they twist among palm groves and farms. Dust storms, called shamal, blow from the north-west, sometimes in summer, and visibility can fall sharply. As with all of the Gulf, the summer heat makes midday riding inadvisable, and a winter trip is much more comfortable. Rules on foreign riders in Saudi Arabia are strict and vary, so check them before you plan.
Julayjilah and Al Qurayn are the nearest towns, with shops and basic fuel stations, and Hofuf has all the services. Sit with a small cup of cardamom coffee and a handful of dates, and take in the quiet. Drink plenty of water, wear a hat and respect local customs, including modest dress and avoiding photographs of people without their permission.