The Meseș hills are a long, wooded ridge in northwestern Romania, and for the Romans they were the edge of the world. Beyond them lay the free Dacians and the peoples of the great plain; on this side lay the province of Dacia, conquered by Trajan in the early second century. The valley of the Agrij river, which runs along the southern side of the ridge in Sălaj county, is dotted with archaeological sites, and Osoiul Ciontului is one of many places in the area where traces of ancient settlement have been recorded. There may be little to see at the spot itself, but the landscape around it is rich in history and quiet beauty.
The great site nearby is Porolissum, near the village of Moigrad, northeast of Zalău. It was the most important Roman town and military base on the northwestern frontier of Dacia, guarding a pass through the Meseș hills. The ruins include a reconstructed gate, the walls of the fort, an amphitheatre and the remains of a customs post, all set on a hilltop with sweeping views. It is one of the most impressive Roman sites in Romania, and it is rarely crowded.
Sălaj county is also known for its wooden churches, small, steep-roofed buildings of oak and shingle, often set in village graveyards on hillsides. Many date from the eighteenth century, and their interiors are painted with saints and scenes from the Bible. They are a lovely sight, especially in the evening light.
The riding here is relaxed and rural. The roads follow the valleys, with gentle bends and short climbs over the hills, through villages where horse-drawn carts are still common. Surfaces vary; the main roads are generally good, but minor roads can be potholed or gravel. Watch out for dogs, livestock and slow vehicles. The views from the ridge over the rolling countryside are wonderful, especially in spring and autumn.
Zalău, the county seat, is the place for fuel, supermarkets and restaurants. The villages around have small shops and bars, but services are limited. Try the local food: sarmale, cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice, or a hearty ciorbă, a sour soup. The weather is continental, hot in summer and cold in winter, with snow on the hills. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for riding.