Agadir is a very new city in a very old country, and the reason is the earthquake. At a few minutes before midnight on 29 February 1960, a quake destroyed most of the old town and killed thousands of people, and the city was rebuilt from scratch in a modern style, with wide avenues, low buildings and a long promenade along the bay. The one piece that survived is the hilltop kasbah, Agadir Oufella, whose ruined walls overlook the town from about two hundred metres up, bearing an inscription in Arabic that reads God, Country, King. The view from it, across the bay and the port, is the best in town.
The beach is the main attraction, a long curve of pale sand backed by hotels and cafés, and it is busy with Moroccan families and European visitors. The weather is mild nearly all year, with a fresh Atlantic breeze that keeps summer temperatures bearable, and morning mist often rolls in from the sea. Behind the city lies the Souss valley, a fertile plain of orange groves and vegetable farms, bordered by the foothills of the Anti-Atlas, and the argan tree, found only in this part of Morocco, grows on the hills. Goats sometimes climb the trees to eat the fruit, which is pressed into oil by women's cooperatives.
For riders, the road north along the Atlantic is a joy. The coast road from Agadir toward Essaouira runs high above the sea, passing small fishing villages and surfing beaches such as Taghazout and Imsouane, and cutting through argan forests and cliffs, before reaching the white and blue walled port of Essaouira. The surface is mostly good, though sand blows over some sections, and there are many police checkpoints, so keep your papers handy and your speed legal. Strong winds are common, particularly in the afternoon, and mist can reduce visibility in the morning. Spring and autumn offer the best conditions, while summer is warm and busy.
Fuel is plentiful in the city and along the main roads, though it can be sparse on minor coastal tracks. Fresh sardines and grilled fish are the local specialty, served in simple restaurants near the port. Leave time for a late afternoon walk along the promenade and a glass of mint tea as the sun sets.