The Ponte dell'Ammiraglio is an old bridge that has lost its river. It was built in 1131 by George of Antioch, the admiral of the Norman king Roger II of Sicily, a Greek Christian from Syria who rose to be the most powerful man in the kingdom, and it spans the Oreto, whose course has since been diverted, leaving the bridge standing over a dry bed among modern roads. Even so, its pointed arches, built of pale stone, are a fine example of the Arab-Norman style that flourished in Sicily, and it forms part of the UNESCO listing of Arab-Norman Palermo and the cathedrals of Cefalù and Monreale, inscribed in 2015.
The setting is unglamorous, with traffic roaring around it and a small fenced area from which it is viewed, but the blend of cultures it represents is the real story of Sicily: Arab, Byzantine and Norman craftsmen working together, with Islamic geometry, Greek mosaics and Latin churches side by side. The nearby suburb of Ciaculli is known for its late mandarins, which ripen after Christmas and are prized in Sicily.
Palermo is not an easy city for riders. The traffic is dense and improvisational, with scooters, cars and pedestrians crossing in a flow, and the old streets are narrow. Take a deep breath, ride defensively and accept that the horn is a form of conversation. Outside the city, the roads climb into the hills with views over the Conca d'Oro, the golden shell of lemon and orange groves that once surrounded the city. The long run across the island to Villa Romana del Casale takes you through the high inland plateau, with wheat fields that turn from green to gold.
The villa at Piazza Armerina holds some of the finest Roman mosaics in the world, from the fourth century, including the famous scene of women in bikini-like costumes. Fuel is easy in Palermo and on the main roads, but fill the tank before heading inland. Summer heat is intense, with the scirocco wind bringing African dust, so go in spring or autumn. Eat arancini, the fried rice balls, or pasta con le sarde, and finish with a cannolo.