The rock itself is a surprise. The Acropolis rises about a hundred and fifty metres above Athens, a limestone outcrop with steep sides and a flat top, and for most of ancient history it was the city's fortress and shrine. The buildings you see today, the Parthenon, the Propylaia gateway, the little temple of Athena Nike and the Erechtheion with its stone maidens, were mostly built in the second half of the fifth century BC under Pericles, with the sculptor Phidias overseeing the work. The Parthenon was finished in 432 BC.
Its later history is rough. The Parthenon became a church and then a mosque, and in 1687, when the Venetians besieged the Ottoman garrison, a shell hit the gunpowder stored inside and blew the roof off. In the early nineteenth century, much of the sculpture was removed by Lord Elgin, and the argument over the Parthenon marbles in London continues. Restoration work has been under way for decades, so scaffolding is a normal part of the view.
For a rider, Athens is a challenge. The roads around the rock are crowded with cars, scooters and taxis, with little patience for hesitation, and the summer heat is intense. The best time to visit the site is when it opens in the morning, before the crowds and the sun, or in the late afternoon, and the marble surface is slippery when worn. Outside the city, the Attiki Odos toll motorway circles the Athenian plain, and the roads south-west to Epidaurus cross the Corinth canal and enter the dry hills of the Peloponnese.
Fuel is easy across the city. For lunch, ask for a gyro or souvlaki in the Plaka, the old district below the Acropolis, where the lanes are narrow and the tavernas are many, and finish with a Greek coffee or a cold frappé. Take water, a hat and sensible shoes if you are climbing, and leave your helmet in a secure place. The best moment is sunset, when the stone turns honey-coloured and the city lights come on below.