Abu Dhabi sits on an island, joined to the mainland by bridges, and the flat green and white city that spreads across it grew from a fishing village with a fort. Qasr Al Hosn, the old white coral-and-sea-stone fort dating from the eighteenth century, still stands among the high-rises as the oldest building in the city, and it was the home of the ruling family before the oil era. Oil was found offshore in the late 1950s and exports began in the early 1960s, and when Sheikh Zayed became ruler he put much of the money into trees, roads and schools. In 1971, he became the first president of the United Arab Emirates.
The city's landmarks are on a huge scale. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, completed in 2007, has eighty-two white marble domes and a vast courtyard, and is open to visitors outside prayer times with modest dress. The Louvre Abu Dhabi, under a great perforated dome that scatters light like rain, opened in 2017. The Corniche is a long waterfront promenade with beaches and cycle paths, and Yas Island hosts the Formula One season finale. Beyond the city, the desert begins almost immediately, with red dunes and salt flats.
For riders, the roads are wide and fast, with smooth tarmac, many lanes and careful signage. Speed cameras are widespread, and the fines are heavy, so keep to the limits. The best riding is outside town, on the long highway to Al Ain, which passes through the desert with gentle curves, and on to the oasis at Al Qattara. Sand blows across the road in wind, and visibility can be reduced in a dust storm. Helmets are compulsory and licences are checked. Summer heat is brutal, so go early in the morning or between November and March.
Practically, fuel stations are everywhere and the price is moderate, and there are shops and cafes at every intersection. Water is essential, and a hydration pack is a good investment. The city has a full range of restaurants, from Emirati dishes such as machboos and luqaimat dumplings to every cuisine in the world. Parking for motorcycles is easy in most areas. If you leave the city for a long desert run, let someone know your route, carry a phone and fill the tank before leaving.