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Abtsdorf I

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Abtsdorf lies on the western shore of the Attersee, the largest lake in the Salzkammergut, a region of lakes, forests and limestone peaks east of Salzburg. The water is remarkably clear, a deep blue-green that looks almost Mediterranean on a bright day, and the lake is about twenty kilometres long, which makes it a gentle place to ride beside. The towns along the shore, Attersee and Weyregg among them, are small and old-fashioned, with sailing clubs and cafes that open onto the water.

The site called Abtsdorf I is one of the prehistoric pile dwelling settlements around the Alps that UNESCO listed in 2011. About five thousand years ago, people built houses on timber piles at the edges of lakes here, and the wet mud has preserved wood, tools and plant remains in remarkable condition. At the Attersee, the remains lie under water and in the lake bed, so there is little to see on the surface. It is a place for the imagination, and for reading about the people who lived on stilts above the shallows in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages.

The riding along the lake is pleasant rather than dramatic. The road follows the shore through villages and orchards, with views across the water to the Hollengebirge, a limestone wall on the far side. Traffic can be heavy on summer weekends, with cyclists, tour buses and day trippers, so go early or on weekdays. The mountains behind the lake offer more fun, with roads climbing towards Mondsee and the Wolfgangsee. Weather can turn quickly in the Alps, and afternoon thunderstorms in summer are common.

For fuel, look to the larger places at the northern end of the lake, since the villages along the shore are small. The lake has a long association with art. Gustav Klimt spent summers near Litzlberg in the early twentieth century and painted many of his landscapes here, and the square format of those paintings suits the view. Take a swim if the weather allows. The water is clean and cool, and the shoreline is well suited to a quiet pause.

Read it in a ride

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