The Maestrazgo and the Bajo Aragón are among the emptiest parts of Spain, a country of limestone ridges, deep river gorges and villages that look as if they were poured into the hillside. Castellote, Molinos and Mas de las Matas are small stone towns in the Teruel province, with Romanesque and Gothic churches, narrow streets and houses with wooden balconies, set between the Guadalope river and the high ground of the Maestrazgo. The population is small and has been falling for decades, which means traffic is light and the landscape is close to how it has been for centuries.
The rock shelters here, such as the Torico del Pudial, belong to the Levantine rock art tradition that stretches from Catalonia to Andalusia, and the Aragonese examples form part of the UNESCO listing of 1998. They are small, remote and often hard to reach, and the paintings are delicate, so check with the local cultural centre or the Comarca authorities for access. The best-known visitor attraction in the area is not a rock art site but the Grutas de Cristal in Molinos, a show cave full of white crystalline formations that is open to guided visits.
For a rider, this is a joy. The roads twist and turn through the hills with few other vehicles, and the views across limestone crags and pine woods are huge. Surfaces vary from smooth to rough, and some roads are narrow, with livestock and tractors. Winter is cold, and snow and ice can close higher roads, while summers are hot and dry. Spring, with fresh green and flowers, and autumn, with warm light, are the best seasons.
Fuel is a real consideration. Andorra, a town of about 8,000 people some 28 km away, has fuel stations, supermarkets and hotels, while villages like Mas de las Matas have a small station and shops, and others have nothing, so fill up before going deep. Local dishes include ternasco, roast lamb, and the black truffle of Teruel, and the region's olive oil from the Bajo Aragón has its own protected name. The silence and the stars at night are part of the reward.