The Segura river cuts through the north-west of Murcia in a series of gorges and green oases, and near Calasparra its banks hold a surprising treasure. The Abrigo del Pozo shelters, of which this is the third, contain prehistoric paintings in the Levantine style, small human and animal figures in red ochre that form part of the World Heritage rock art of the Mediterranean arc. The shelters are fragile and generally protected, often visited only with a guide, so check with the local tourist office before you count on seeing them.
The landscape is harsh and beautiful. Dry hills covered with esparto grass, pine and thyme surround the river, which flows through rice fields and orchards in the valley bottom. Calasparra is famous for its rice, grown in terraced paddies along the Segura and protected by a designation of origin, among the first rice in Spain to have one. The Bomba variety grown here absorbs a lot of liquid and is prized for paella. Near the town, the sanctuary of the Virgen de la Esperanza is built into a cave in the cliffs above the river, a place of pilgrimage for centuries.
The roads in this part of Murcia are a pleasure for riders who like quiet country lanes. The routes between Calasparra, Cieza and Moratalla wind through hills and gorges, with good surfaces and very little traffic. Summer heat is serious, often above forty degrees in July and August, so plan early starts and carry water. In spring the hills turn green, almond trees blossom, and the air smells of wild herbs. The Cañaverosa reserve along the Segura offers a lush riverside landscape in the middle of the dry country.
Calasparra, eight kilometres away, is a town of ten thousand with fuel, shops and restaurants where you can taste the local rice dishes. Cieza, further south, is known for its peach orchards, which turn the valley pink when they blossom in late February and March. A good plan is to combine a visit to the sanctuary with lunch in Calasparra and an afternoon ride through the gorges, stopping at viewpoints over the river. Evening light on the red cliffs and green rice paddies is magical.