The northwest of Murcia is a world away from the coastal resorts. Around Moratalla, the land rises into the mountains that form the southern edge of the Sierra de Segura, a rugged country of pine forests, deep river valleys, terraced hillsides and white villages perched on rocks. The Abrigo del Molino de Bagil is one of the many rock shelters in this area that contain prehistoric paintings, part of the UNESCO listing of the rock art of the Mediterranean Basin. Moratalla and its neighbours have an especially rich collection, with scenes of hunters, archers and animals painted in the Levantine style thousands of years ago. Many shelters are protected by fences, and visits are possible only with guides or by arrangement.
Moratalla is a striking town, its houses climbing up a hill to a medieval castle, with narrow streets and steep stairways. Nearby, Caravaca de la Cruz is one of the holy cities of the Catholic Church, home to a relic of the True Cross, and it holds a jubilee year every seven years, drawing pilgrims from across Spain. The villages to the north, such as Socovos, Férez and Letur in the province of Albacete, are equally charming, with Moorish street plans, gardens and springs. Letur's old quarter, built around a gorge with waterfalls, is a delight.
The riding in this region is superb. The roads wind through the mountains with endless curves, steep climbs and descents, and spectacular views over the valleys and forests. Traffic is very light, surfaces are generally good, though some minor roads can be rough and narrow, and the scenery is varied, from pine forests to almond orchards and rocky gorges. The road from Moratalla north toward Nerpio and the Sierra de Segura is a highlight. Watch for gravel on bends, livestock, and the occasional wild boar. Summers are hot, winters can be cold with snow on the high ground, and spring and autumn are ideal.
Moratalla, about seventeen kilometres away, has fuel, food and shops, and the smaller villages have basic services. Local food is rustic and hearty: migas, fried breadcrumbs with garlic and sausage, lamb stews, and rice with rabbit and snails. Ride the mountain roads in the cool of the morning, stop for lunch in Moratalla or Letur, and if you can arrange a visit, see the rock art for yourself. The landscape is as compelling as the paintings.