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Abrigo del milano

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Bullas is wine country, and the vineyards of Monastrell grapes roll over the hills around the town in the northwest of Murcia, producing robust red wines under their own denomination of origin. The Abrigo del Milano, the kite's shelter, named after the bird of prey that circles over these hills, lies in the countryside between Bullas, Mula and Pliego. It is one of the many rock shelters in Murcia with prehistoric paintings, part of the UNESCO listing of Mediterranean rock art, though access to many shelters is restricted to protect them, so ask locally before trying to visit.

Mula, about ten kilometres away, is a historic town with a castle on a rocky hill, built in the sixteenth century, and a lively old town with churches and convents. In Holy Week, the town hosts the Noche de los Tambores, a night of drumming when thousands of people beat drums through the streets from midnight until dawn, a deafening and unforgettable experience. Pliego, to the south, is a small village beneath the remains of a Moorish castle.

The riding here is varied and enjoyable. To the south, the Sierra Espuña, a natural park of pine forests and limestone peaks, has some of the best mountain roads in Murcia, with tight hairpins and spectacular views, and the old snow wells, built to store snow for the city of Murcia before refrigeration. The roads around Bullas wind through vineyards and almond groves, and west toward Cehegín and Caravaca de la Cruz, the landscape becomes more mountainous. Traffic is light on the minor roads, but watch for farm vehicles and cyclists. Summers are very hot, often exceeding forty degrees, so ride in the morning.

Bullas has fuel, shops and restaurants, as well as a wine museum that explains the local wine-making tradition, and several wineries offer tours. Local food includes arroz con conejo, rice with rabbit, migas and grilled lamb. In October, the town celebrates its wine festival. Mula has more services and a museum with Iberian artefacts. The thermal baths of Mula, a short distance from the town, offer a relaxing break after a long ride.

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