Near Albarracín, the land turns red. The Pinares de Rodeno, a pine forest growing on russet sandstone, stretches along the road below the walled town, and the rocks are so full of paintings that the whole area is a kind of open gallery. The archer shelter is one of many painted overhangs, and the name, Abrigo del Arquero, refers to a small red figure drawing a bow. The art belongs to the Levantine tradition, with slim, active human figures hunting and gathering, and it is the reason this area is protected.
Riding here is a gentle pleasure. The roads around Albarracín are narrow and quiet, climbing through pine woods and then opening onto bare plateau, with the Sierra de Albarracín rising to the west. The headwaters of the Tagus, the Turia and the Júcar all rise in this region, and the countryside has a wild, high character, with juniper, gorse and skylarks. Surfaces are generally fair, and traffic is light except on summer weekends near the town.
Albarracín itself is built of the same rose-coloured stone, with walls climbing a ridge above the Guadalaviar river and a skyline of towers. It is small, with about a thousand people, so fuel is limited; plan ahead, and consider filling up in Teruel, the provincial capital to the east. In town you can find simple restaurants serving roast lamb, ham and local cheeses, and the cold in winter is notable, with real snow possible.
The rock shelters are often marked on small tracks, and some require a short walk. Respect the fencing, because the paintings are fragile and the red pigment is easily damaged. Go on a mild day in late spring or autumn, when the light on the sandstone is warm and the pines smell of resin. Look closely and the whole forest reveals other figures.