Castellote is a small, grey village in the Maestrazgo, the high, dry upland of eastern Teruel, built round a ruined castle that once belonged to the Templars. The Abrigo del Arquero, the Archer's Shelter, is one of the rock shelters in the cliffs of the area, with painted figures in the Levantine style, including archers, from which it takes its name. It belongs to the Mediterranean Basin rock art group that UNESCO listed in 1998. The shelter lies in the hills several kilometres from Castellote, and the walk in takes some effort.
The country of the Guadalope river is a land of cliffs and gorges, with pine woods, scrub and stony fields in between. The Maestrazgo is thinly populated, and the villages are old, with stone houses and arcaded squares. Molinos, to the south-west, is known for its caves, the Grutas de Cristal, a lovely cavern of white crystalline formations. The sky is large, the air clear and the nights dark, and the smell in summer is of thyme and hot stone.
For a rider the Maestrazgo is a fine area. The roads are quiet, with a good succession of curves, climbs to passes with long views and descents into gorges. Traffic is minimal, and the surface is generally fair, though winter frost damages minor roads and the heat in summer can be fierce. The weather at altitude is changeable, and storms in late summer can be violent, so check forecasts. Wildlife, including deer and boar, can cross the road at dusk.
Castellote and Molinos are small, with limited facilities, and Mas de las Matas, a larger village with a population of nearly fifteen hundred, has fuel and shops. Alcañiz, a good distance north, is much larger, so fill up there if in doubt. Local specialities include cured ham, lamb, and a rich dessert of almonds and honey. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and summer is hot by day but cool by night.