The Guadalope river cuts a deep canyon through the limestone of the Maestrazgo in eastern Teruel, and the Abrigo del Arenal de la Fonseca lies in this wild country near the hamlet of Ladruñán, between the villages of Castellote and Cantavieja. It is one of the important rock-art shelters of Aragon, part of the UNESCO listing of Mediterranean prehistoric art, with Levantine paintings of animals and human figures in red pigment on the rock. The setting is spectacular: a narrow gorge with towering cliffs, the river flowing below, and pine and holm oak clinging to the slopes. Access involves a walk, and the paintings are protected by a fence.
The Maestrazgo is one of the most sparsely populated areas of Europe, a region of high plateaus, deep gorges and medieval villages, once ruled by the military orders of the Templars and the Hospitallers. Cantavieja, perched on a cliff, has an arcaded main square and Templar origins, and Castellote has a castle and a dramatic rock tunnel. Mirambel and La Iglesuela del Cid are among the most beautiful villages in Spain.
Riding in the Maestrazgo is a dream for those who love mountain roads without traffic. The roads from Castellote to Cantavieja, Mirambel and Morella, across high passes and through gorges, offer endless curves, steep climbs and descents, and spectacular views. Surfaces are mostly good, but expect gravel, potholes and the occasional rock on the road. The altitude is high, often over a thousand metres, so winters are cold and snowy, and summer nights cool. Spring and autumn offer the best conditions, and the colours of autumn are stunning.
Services are scarce. Castellote and Cantavieja have small shops, bars and simple lodging, but the nearest town of over five thousand people, Andorra in Teruel, is about thirty-four kilometres away, and fuel stations are few and far between, so fill up whenever you can. Local food is hearty: Teruel ham, lamb, migas, and sheep's cheese. Dinópolis, a dinosaur theme park in Teruel city with branches across the province, is a reminder that this area is rich in fossils, and several villages have dinosaur museums.