Alacón is a village of about four hundred people in the province of Teruel, in a dry country of pale hills, almond trees and scrubby pine, and for most of the last century it did not appear on anyone's list of places to visit. Then it became known that the barrancos around it hold some of the most important rock-art shelters in Aragon, the work of Levantine painters, and the whole area of the Río Martín was declared a cultural park. The Abrigo de los Recolectores, near the village, takes its name from a scene of figures who appear to be gathering something from plants or hives.
The riding is quiet, honest country riding. The roads in the district run along the Martín valley, climb over low ridges and cross a dry plateau, and the bends are gentle, the surface variable, the traffic almost none. It can be hard going in July, when the sun is fierce and shade is scarce, and bitterly cold in January, but April, May and October are excellent. Make sure your tank is full, because the villages are small and fuel is far apart.
Andorra, twenty-four kilometres away, is the real town of the district, with nearly eight thousand people and several stations, and a long industrial history tied to coal and electricity. Oliete and Muniesa, nearer, are small and attractive. None of these has a sure supply of fuel, so use Andorra.
As always with rock art, expect something modest, and be ready for fencing and guided visits. The cultural park provides information in the villages, and it is best to ask there about access and conditions. Keep off the rock, carry water, and remember that the best light is in the morning.
One more thing about this part of Teruel: it is a country that has lost people for a century, and you feel the space it leaves. Farmhouses stand empty, terraces have gone back to scrub, and a village bar may be the only open door for twenty kilometres. Spend a little in it, say good morning to whoever is behind the counter, and ask about the paintings. In places like Alacón, the people who live there are the best guides, and the shelters were first noticed by farmers and shepherds long before archaeologists arrived.