Where the Río Segura squeezes through the sandstone and limestone ridges of northern Murcia, between Calasparra and Cieza, the valley turns into a canyon of orange and grey rock with narrow green strips of reeds and orchard along the water. The Abrigo de las Enredaderas, a rock shelter, lies twelve kilometres or so from both towns, in dry hills of pine, rosemary and esparto grass that smell sharply of resin on a hot day.
Shelters like this one hold some of the oldest images in the region. The paintings in this part of Murcia belong to the Levantine tradition, small red figures of deer, goats and hunters, made by prehistoric people thousands of years ago, and the whole group is protected by UNESCO as Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin. Several shelters are in the care of the regional government and may be fenced; others are hard to reach and unmarked, so ask at the tourist office in Calasparra before wandering into the scrub. Do not touch the walls, because the oils on a hand do real damage.
The towns have their own stories. Calasparra is known for its rice, grown in terraced paddies fed by the cold Segura water and protected by its own designation of origin, which is not what you expect to find in a dry corner of south-eastern Spain. Just outside the town the sanctuary of the Virgen de la Esperanza clings to the rock above the river, reached by a winding road. Cieza, larger and busier, is famous for its fruit: in February and March, thousands of peach and apricot trees bloom pink and white across the valley, a spectacle that draws visitors from across the region.
The riding is varied. Roads follow the river through the gorge of Almadenes with a sequence of bends, narrow bridges and a fine view of the cliffs, while the high plateau roads are quiet and wind-scoured. Summers are fierce, with temperatures over forty degrees, so ride at dawn and carry water. Spring and autumn are best. Calasparra, with some ten thousand people, has fuel and bars, and Cieza, with thirty-five thousand, has all you could want, including good small bakeries and a pleasant old quarter. Sunday afternoons are quiet, and many places close for a long lunch.