The Macizo del Caroig is one of the emptiest corners of the Valencian region, a high, rugged limestone massif cut by deep gorges, covered with pine, scrub and rosemary, and dotted with a few small villages. Bicorp, Millares and Quesa lie on its edges, and in the ravines around them are dozens of rock shelters with prehistoric paintings, part of the UNESCO-listed rock art of the Mediterranean Basin. The Abrigo de las Cañas is one of them, and the area as a whole is among the richest in Spain for this kind of art.
The most famous painting in the region is in the Cuevas de la Araña, near Bicorp. It shows a figure climbing ropes up a cliff to collect honey from a wild bees' nest, with bees flying around, one of the oldest known images of honey gathering in the world. A visitor centre in Bicorp explains the paintings and organises guided visits to the shelters, which are protected by fences.
The Júcar river cuts a dramatic gorge along the northern edge of the massif, with cliffs, reservoirs and the remains of old mills. The landscape is wild and beautiful, with eagles soaring overhead and the smell of pine and herbs in the air. In summer, people swim in the river pools and the reservoirs, though the heat can be intense.
The riding is superb. The roads that link Bicorp, Quesa, Millares and Navarrés are narrow and winding, with tight bends, steep climbs and descents, and spectacular views over the gorges. Traffic is almost non-existent, and you can ride for long stretches without meeting another vehicle. Surfaces vary, with patches of gravel and rough tarmac, and rockfalls are possible after heavy rain. The road along the Júcar gorge towards Cortes de Pallás is particularly dramatic.
The villages around have small shops and bars, but services are limited; for reliable fuel, head to Navarrés or Enguera in the Canal de Navarrés valley. Carry water, especially in summer. Try local dishes such as gazpacho manchego, a hearty stew of game and flatbread, or a paella cooked over a wood fire. Spring and autumn are the best seasons; summer is very hot, and winter can be cold, with occasional snow on the high ground.