High in the Sierra de Segura, where Albacete, Murcia and Jaén meet, the Taibilla river cuts a deep valley through limestone mountains, and the cliffs and shelters along its banks hide some of the finest prehistoric paintings in Spain. The Abrigo de la Ventana, the window shelter, is one of them, near the village of Nerpio, and it is part of the World Heritage site of Levantine rock art.
The shelters around Nerpio, including the famous Solana de las Covachas, contain hundreds of figures: archers, hunters, animals, and scenes of daily life, painted in red and black. The art is remarkable for its movement and detail. Nerpio has an interpretation centre, and guided visits are available to some of the shelters, which are protected by fences. The walk to the shelters is part of the experience, through pine forests and along the river.
This is remote country, and the riding is spectacular. The roads from Moratalla, Yeste or Caravaca to Nerpio wind through mountains and valleys, with tight bends, steep climbs and descents, and views over forests and gorges. The surfaces are generally good, but some roads are narrow and twisty, and traffic is very light. In winter, snow can fall at higher elevations, and summer can be hot in the valleys, though the mountains are cooler.
Nerpio is a small village known for its walnuts. The trees grow along the river, and some are centuries old, with huge trunks. The village has a church, a few bars and restaurants, and a peaceful atmosphere. The surrounding mountains are home to wild goats, deer, eagles and vultures, and the rivers are clean and clear.
Nerpio, about twelve kilometres away, has a shop, bars and a place to sleep, but do not rely on finding fuel there. Moratalla, about twenty-five kilometres away, is the nearest larger town with more options. Try local dishes like gazpacho manchego, a hearty stew of flatbread and game, or trout from the river. And buy a bag of walnuts before you leave.