A rambla is a dry riverbed that only runs after storms, and the Rambla de Pedro Izquierdo is one of many that cut into the limestone hills around Nerpio, in the remote south-western corner of Albacete. In a rock shelter above it, prehistoric people left paintings in the Levantine style, small, lively figures of people and animals, and the site is one of the many shelters around Nerpio that belong to the UNESCO-listed Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula. Visits are normally arranged through the village, and a guide will know which shelters are accessible and when the light is right for seeing the faded pigment.
Nerpio lies in the valley of the Taibilla, a river whose water is famous across south-east Spain: the Mancomunidad de los Canales del Taibilla was set up to carry it to Cartagena and the Murcia coast. Up here, though, it is a clear mountain stream lined with poplars and walnut orchards, and the village is known for its walnuts, gathered in autumn from old trees that shade the terraces. Above the valley rise the Sierra de Taibilla and the Sierra de las Cabras, with pine forests, cliffs and griffon vultures circling on thermals.
The roads in and out of Nerpio are what bring riders back. From Moratalla in the south, from Yeste in the north or from Letur in the east, each approach twists through gorges and over passes, with long stretches where you will see nobody at all. Surfaces vary, and rockfall, gravel and goats are routine hazards, so ride with margin.
The practical side is simple: Nerpio is small, and fuel is limited, so arrive with a decent tank, ideally filled in Moratalla or Caravaca. The village bars serve hearty food, from gazpacho manchego to lamb chops grilled over vine shoots. Summer is hot by day and cool by night, and in winter frost is common. The best seasons are spring, when the almond trees and broom bloom, and autumn, when the walnuts fall and the poplars along the river turn gold.