The upper Segura valley, south of Nerpio, is a world of cliffs and reservoirs, and the place called La Llagosa lies in the middle of it. This is the Sierra de Segura, a limestone massif that forms part of one of Spain's biggest natural parks, the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas, a UNESCO biosphere reserve. It is a land of pine forest and rocky ridges, where the Segura and its tributaries cut deep valleys, and the landscape is dotted with small villages like Yeste and Letur, whose white houses cluster on rocky spurs.
The shelters scattered through these hills belong to the Levantine rock art tradition. Artists using red and black pigment painted tiny, lively figures of hunters, archers, goats and deer, and the paintings have survived in sheltered overhangs for thousands of years. The Mediterranean rock art of the Iberian Peninsula has been on the UNESCO list since 1998. Visits to individual shelters are limited, and some are gated, so enquire at the local tourist information in Yeste or Nerpio before you plan a visit. Never touch the walls, and keep to paths.
Riding in this area is demanding in a good way. The roads are narrow and twisty, with lots of climbing and descending, and there are long stretches without a house or a station. Fuel is the crucial point: the nearest big town in the data, Moratalla, is 38 km away, and Yeste, with about 3,600 people, is closer and has some services, so fill the tank beforehand. Weather can change quickly in the sierra, and winter snow and ice can make higher roads treacherous. Summer is hot, but nights remain cool.
The Segura is clean here, and its reservoirs, such as the Taibilla and the Fuensanta, are used for fishing and swimming. Look for griffon vultures and, with luck, mountain goats on the crags. Local food leans on game, such as venison and wild boar stews, and on migas, with strong cheese from the mountain farms. This is a quiet, spacious part of Spain, best taken slowly, with a camera and a full water bottle.