Nerpio, in the south-east corner of Albacete province, sits at the end of a long run of mountain road, and the Abrigo de la Hoz belongs to the area's rich group of painted shelters. The name means the shelter of the gorge, hoz being the old Spanish word for a narrow river canyon, and the cliffs near the Taibilla river do indeed have a gorge-like feel. The paintings, in red, show the typical cast of animals and human figures, and they are part of the UNESCO listing for the rock art of the Mediterranean basin.
Nerpio is a long way from anywhere. The nearest town of any size is Moratalla, in the province of Murcia, a good forty kilometres away, with just over eight and a half thousand people, a castle, and a long tradition of drumming during Holy Week. Yeste, in Albacete, is closer and smaller. If you find the tank at half on the way in, fill it before climbing further.
The ride in is part of the reward. The roads wind up through pine and oak, with the Segura and the Taibilla below, and then come out onto high pastures where the horizon opens out. The bends come in long sequences, with a few sharp switchbacks, and gravel is sometimes washed onto the surface after storms. The cold is real here, even in spring, and a thermal layer is a good idea. Wild boar and deer cross the road at dusk, and in winter there may be snow on the heights.
The lack of traffic can be misleading, because logging trucks and farm machinery use the same roads and take up more than their share of the lane. Take it steadily and enjoy the quiet.
Late spring and early autumn are the best seasons, when the weather is mild and the colours are good. If you want to see the shelter, ask in Nerpio for advice about access and the state of the path.