The Río Martín country of Teruel is a place of deep gorges and bare, honey-coloured hills, and Oliete and Estercuel are two of its tiny villages. The Abrigo de la Higuera del Barranco de Ester is a small shelter in a side ravine, named for the fig tree that grows at its mouth, and it holds paintings that belong to the rock art of the Mediterranean Basin, as protected by UNESCO. The pictures include the small red figures of the Levantine tradition, and the setting, under an overhang of golden rock, is a good place to sit and think about how few things have changed in the landscape.
The land has a stark beauty. Limestone cliffs rise from the river, with juniper, rosemary and pine on the slopes, and the fields of almond and olive are laid in terraces in the valleys. Oliete is a place of quarries, and a pale stone from the area has been worked for centuries. The sky is huge, and at night the stars are among the brightest in Spain, since there is almost no light pollution. Griffon vultures and eagles circle the cliffs by day.
The riding is quiet and pleasing, with narrow roads that wind through the gorges and across the plateau, a good rhythm of bends and short straights, and views that open without warning. Traffic is almost absent, and the surface is generally fair, though minor roads may be rough or washed out after rain. The summer heat is intense, and the best riding is in spring and autumn. In winter, frost and ice are possible on the high ground.
There is little fuel in the villages, and it is best to fill up in Andorra, which is larger, or in Alcañiz, before heading out. Oliete and Estercuel have a few bars, and in a good one you will find strong coffee and a plate of cured ham. Carry water, and let someone know your route. The paths to the shelters are rough, so wear proper shoes.