Nerpio is about as far from anywhere as you can get in mainland Spain. The village sits in the southwestern corner of Albacete province, where Castilla-La Mancha meets Andalusia and Murcia, in the mountains of the Sierra de Segura, at the end of long, winding roads. It is known for its walnut trees, which line the valleys and give the village its pride, and for its rock art: the hills around are full of shelters with prehistoric paintings, and Nerpio is one of the most important centres for Levantine art in Spain. The Abrigo de la Fuente de Montañoz is one of these shelters, near a spring in the hills above the Taibilla river.
The rock art of Nerpio includes hunting scenes, deer, goats and human figures, painted in red with remarkable vitality. The paintings are part of the UNESCO-listed rock art of the Mediterranean Basin. An interpretation centre in the village explains the art and organises guided visits to some of the shelters, many of which are protected by fences and difficult to reach without a guide.
The landscape is wild and beautiful, with pine forests, limestone cliffs, deep valleys and terraces of walnut, almond and olive trees. The Taibilla river runs through the valley, and its waters supply much of southeastern Spain through a long canal. In autumn, the walnut harvest brings the village to life, and the trees turn gold.
The riding to get here is an adventure in itself. The roads from Yeste, Caravaca de la Cruz or Moratalla wind through the mountains for many kilometres, with endless bends, steep climbs and descents, and spectacular views. Traffic is almost non-existent, but surfaces vary, with patches of gravel, potholes and rockfalls. Watch for goats, sheep and wild boar on the road. The area is remote, and mobile coverage can be patchy.
Nerpio has a few bars, restaurants and small shops; fuel is limited, so fill up before heading into the mountains, in Yeste, Caravaca or Moratalla. Try local walnuts, honey and hearty mountain dishes such as gazpacho or migas. The weather is continental, with hot summers and cold winters; snow can fall on the high ground. Spring and autumn are the best seasons. Take your time; this is a place to slow down.