Almería is known for its beaches and desert, but the north of the province holds a different landscape: high, dry limestone mountains with pine forests, almond groves and a series of rock shelters where prehistoric people painted. The Sierra de María-Los Vélez rises above two thousand metres, and around the town of Vélez-Blanco several shelters preserve paintings of the Levantine style, with small, lively red figures of hunters, animals and humans. UNESCO lists Spain's Levantine rock art as a World Heritage Site, and the Abrigo de la Esperilla is one of those painted places.
Nobody knows exactly what the paintings meant. They are thousands of years old, painted with mineral pigments on the overhanging walls of shallow caves, and they show scenes of hunting, gathering and ceremony. A symbol from a nearby shelter, the Indalo, a figure holding an arch above its head, has become the emblem of Almería, appearing on souvenirs across the province. Take a moment to think that the artists chose these walls with great care, close to water and good hunting.
The town of Vélez-Blanco has a Renaissance castle, built in the early sixteenth century by the Marquis of Los Vélez, which looks like a fortress outside and a palace within; its marble courtyard was sold in the twentieth century and now stands in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The countryside around is arid and open, with terraced fields and wide views, and the mountain air is clean and sharp. Winter nights can be cold, and in summer the days are hot and dry.
Riding here is a pleasure. The roads climb steadily through pines, with bends, switchbacks and little traffic, and the surface is generally good, with occasional rough patches. The sun is strong, so carry water, and in winter check for ice on high stretches. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and the almond blossom in February is spectacular. Reaching the shelter itself usually involves a walk on a track, so wear boots and respect any protective fencing or signs.
Vélez-Blanco has some shops and bars, but for fuel and a larger choice of food go to Vélez Rubio, about fifteen kilometres away. Try migas, fried breadcrumbs with chorizo and peppers, which are a classic of the area, or a plate of local cured ham.