This is the country of the honey-gatherer. Not far from here, in a cave near Bicorp, one of the best-known Levantine paintings shows a tiny figure climbing a rope ladder to a wild bees' nest high in a cliff, with bees swarming around him. It is thousands of years old, and it is a reminder that the artists who painted these shelters were also men and women who took honey from the rock, followed deer through the scrub and watched the weather. The Abric de Tollos belongs to the same family of shelters in the hills of inland Valencia, part of the Levantine rock art listed by UNESCO.
The countryside around Bicorp, Quesa and Navarrés is dry, rugged and sparsely settled. The Canal de Navarrés is a broad valley between mountain ridges with orchards, olive groves and fields of cereal, ending in gorges where rivers cut through limestone. Pine and holm oak cover the slopes, and the air carries a strong smell of rosemary and thyme, the wild plants that bees love. Foxes, wild boar and golden eagles live here, and the nights are dark enough for stars to look strange.
Riding in this district is quiet and rewarding. Narrow roads wind through the valleys, crossing small bridges and passing farms and ruined houses, with a few steep climbs and a lot of gentle curves. Surfaces vary widely, so ride with caution and watch for gravel, especially near fields and after storms. In summer the heat is fierce and shade is rare, and in winter frost lingers in the gullies. Spring offers green hills and wildflowers, while autumn brings pleasant temperatures and a golden light that suits the stone villages.
Bicorp, a couple of kilometres off, is a very small place, so go to Enguera, the larger town about twenty kilometres away, for fuel, groceries and a proper meal, or to Navarrés, which is closer and has a few services. Local cooking leans toward rice dishes, roasted meats and good bread, with honey from the hills as a sweet reward. Carry water and a snack, and check whether the shelter can be visited, because many painted sites are fenced and need permission.