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Abric de los Gineses

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Bicorp has about 650 inhabitants and a church, a main street, a bar or two and a long view across a valley of pine and carob trees, and that is the kind of place that makes an inland Valencia ride special. This is the so-called España vaciada, the emptied Spain, where villages have lost most of their young people over the last sixty years, and where the land has been returning to scrub and forest. The roads are quiet because the people are gone, and the effect on a rider is a gift: bend after bend with no traffic, the smell of rosemary and warm pine, and a sky as large as you will see in Europe.

The Abric de los Gineses is part of a group of painted shelters that give the district its renown, in the same tradition as the famous honey-gathering scene in the cave not far away. The paintings, in red, show small figures of archers and animals, and UNESCO lists the Mediterranean Basin rock art as a World Heritage Site, from 1998. The sites are fragile, so a visit must be arranged with local people, and the shelters themselves are often in difficult, steep terrain. Look at the displays in the nearest village to find out what is open.

The villages in the district are tiny, with Quesa and Navarrés at hand, and they repay a stop. A bar in Bicorp or Quesa is a place where the whole village seems to be present at midday, with the television on, the waiter chatting and the plate of the day on the counter. Local cuisine is rural and filling, with rice and rabbit, gazpacho with game, and olives and almonds from the nearby trees. Farmers still keep goats and sheep, and you may meet a flock on the road.

For fuel, plan carefully. Ayora, about 21 km away, is the nearest town of 5,000 people in the data, and Navarrés has a station and shops, but the smaller villages do not. Roads can be narrow, with sharp bends and patched asphalt, and fallen rock after storms is possible. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with comfortable days and fresh air. Carry water and a layer, and give the shepherds a wave.

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