The Montsià range rises abruptly from the coastal plain at the southern tip of Catalonia, a long, rocky ridge of limestone that separates the Ebro delta from the inland valleys. Around its foot lie the villages of Santa Bàrbara, Masdenverge and Ulldecona, surrounded by olive groves, some of them with ancient trees hundreds of years old, their trunks twisted into extraordinary shapes. The Abric de les Llibreres is one of the prehistoric rock shelters in this area, part of the UNESCO-listed rock art of the Mediterranean Basin.
The most important rock art site nearby is at the Abrics de l'Ermita, near Ulldecona, in the Serra de Godall, where a group of shelters contains hundreds of painted figures, including hunting scenes with archers and deer. An interpretation centre explains the art and arranges guided visits.
The olive groves of the Montsià and the neighbouring Baix Maestrat contain some of the oldest olive trees in the world, and some are believed to have been planted in Roman times. The Farga de l'Arion, near Ulldecona, is one of the most famous. The oil produced here is excellent.
To the east lies the Ebro delta, a vast, flat wetland of rice paddies, lagoons, beaches and reed beds, home to flamingos, herons and countless other birds. The delta is a natural park, and the roads that cross it, between the rice fields and canals, are flat and straight, with wide skies and a sense of space. Sunsets over the paddies are spectacular.
The riding is varied. To the west, the mountains of Els Ports offer some of the best riding in Catalonia, with winding roads through pine forests and limestone cliffs, up to Mont Caro, the highest peak in the area, and through villages such as Horta de Sant Joan, where Picasso spent time as a young man. Closer at hand, the roads around the Montsià are pleasant, with gentle bends through olive groves. Surfaces are generally good, traffic light, but watch for agricultural vehicles and cyclists.
Santa Bàrbara has basic services; Ulldecona and Amposta have fuel, shops and restaurants. Try rice dishes from the delta, such as arròs negre, black rice with squid ink, or local olive oil on bread. Summer is hot and humid; spring and autumn are the best seasons.