Benassal sits on a high shelf of the Alt Maestrat, over seven hundred metres up, and the cool, clear air has long made it a summer retreat from the coastal heat. The town has a spa tradition, with springs whose water is bottled and sold across the region, and a medieval centre of stone arcades and Gothic doorways that can stand a slow walk. The Abric de les Dogues, about two and a half kilometres away, is one of the painted shelters scattered through these hills, with Levantine art that UNESCO lists among the Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula.
You can see why people came to this country, even long ago. Water is rare but reliable at certain springs, the ravines make natural shelters, and the high ground gives views over game trails. The modern ride adds another layer: Culla, a little to the east, still carries the ruins of its hilltop castle, once a Templar stronghold, and the stone houses of the Maestrat villages show a very long relationship with sheep, olives and almonds.
The wide view from Benassal is dominated by Penyagolosa, the highest summit of the northern Valencian country, above eighteen hundred metres and often snow-dusted in winter. It looks like the master of the district, and on a clear morning you can pick it out for miles. Between you and it lie ridges of pine and holm oak, with the scent of resin and herbs in warm weather.
For riders this is among the most enjoyable parts of the Castellón interior. The roads are quiet and twisty, climbing and dropping through ravines in tight bends, with big views at the crests and the odd well-cambered corner. Surfaces are variable, so watch for gravel at junctions. A short ride away, the road down toward Morella is a favourite of motorcyclists in the region, with long flowing curves in a high, empty landscape.
Benassal has about thirteen hundred people, which is small, so check your tank before you arrive. Villafranca del Cid, a little farther, is a bigger town with more services. If you fancy a long lunch, local restaurants serve robust food, with lamb, sausage and truffle appearing on menus in the right season. Wrap up in winter; this is a cold, high place.