Somewhere in the limestone folds around Cocentaina, under an overhang of rock, people painted small figures thousands of years before anyone here had heard of Rome. The rock shelters of this part of Alicante belong to the great family of Mediterranean rock art that runs down the eastern side of Spain, recognised together by UNESCO, and the Abric de la Penya Banyà is one of these quiet, unassuming sites. Expect faded red pigment on pale stone, often protected behind a grille, and a short walk from the nearest track rather than a visitor centre.
The setting is the valley of the Serpis, closed in by the Serra de Mariola to the west and the long ridge of the Benicadell to the north. Cocentaina sits right at its heart, a town of around eleven thousand with a castle tower on a hill above and a counts' palace in the old centre. A few kilometres away Alcoy fills a tight knot of ravines with bridges and textile mills, and it is famous across Spain for its Moors and Christians festival in April, when the streets fill with costumed armies, gunpowder and brass bands. Locally made sugared almonds and the herbal liqueur of the Mariola hills are small, sweet souvenirs that travel well in a tank bag.
For a rider, this is excellent country. The roads climbing into the Mariola toward Agres, Bocairent or the high plateau behind Alcoy are narrow and twisting, with pine and holm oak, honey-scented scrub and views back over the terraced valley. The surfaces vary from fresh to patched, and in summer the heat comes up off the rock by late morning, so start early. Spring is the best season, when the almond blossom is done, the hillsides are green and the air smells of thyme and rosemary. Winter can bring frost on the higher shaded bends.
Cocentaina and Muro de Alcoy both have fuel, cafés and the kind of bar where a coffee and a slice of tortilla appear almost before you sit down. Water is worth carrying if you plan to walk to any of the shelters, as tracks are stony and shade is rare. Treat the art with patience: the figures are tiny, the light matters, and they reveal themselves slowly. Stand still for a minute, let your eyes adjust, and the little archers and animals begin to move.