Alforja is a village on the southern edge of the Prades mountains, where the plain of the Camp de Tarragona meets the steep slopes of the Serra de l'Argentera and the Serra de la Mussara. The Abric de Gallicant lies in the hills near Alforja, Vilaplana and Ulldemolins, and it is one of the many prehistoric shelters in these mountains that form part of the UNESCO listing of Mediterranean rock art. The name means rooster's song, a poetic touch typical of Catalan place names. The paintings in this area are generally schematic, with simple figures and geometric shapes, and many shelters are protected by fences.
The Prades mountains are a beautiful, rugged range, with red sandstone and limestone cliffs, pine and holm oak forests, and small stone villages. The area is popular with climbers, especially around Siurana, a tiny village perched on a cliff above a reservoir, which is one of the most famous climbing destinations in Europe. Legend says that the last Moorish queen of Siurana jumped from the cliff on horseback rather than surrender to the Christians, and you can see the queen's leap from the village.
For riders, the Prades mountains are a playground. The road from Alforja over the Coll d'Alforja to Porrera and into the Priorat wine region is a classic, with tight bends, steep climbs and views over vineyards and mountains. The roads to Siurana, Cornudella de Montsant and Prades, the red village built of reddish stone, are also excellent. Surfaces are generally good, but watch for gravel, cyclists and occasional livestock. Summers can be very hot, and the area is at risk of forest fires; spring and autumn are the best seasons.
Alforja has a few shops and bars, but for fuel and more services, head to Riudoms, Reus or Cornudella. The Priorat is famous for its powerful red wines, grown on steep slopes of black slate called llicorella, and many wineries offer tastings, though you will have to save the wine for after the ride. Local food includes grilled lamb, calçots in season and the hazelnuts and almonds that grow on the plain. Reus, about twenty kilometres away, is a vibrant town with modernist architecture.