Ulldecona is a country town of about six thousand people in the far south of Catalonia, close to the border with Valencia, with a long reputation for olive oil, and the rock shelters in the hills above it, known as the Abrics de l'Ermita after the hermitage of La Pietat on the slopes, are among the most rewarding painted sites in the region. Abric d'Ermites VII is one of the series, and carries Levantine painting like its neighbours, part of the UNESCO-listed rock art of the Iberian Mediterranean basin. The other shelters in the group are more famous, but this one rewards a patient eye.
The setting is the Serra de Godall, a low range of limestone ridges and pine forests between the plain of the Ebro delta to the east and the highlands of the Ports de Tortosa-Beseit to the south and west. The ridge views are among the best in the area, taking in olive groves in the valley, the sea beyond, and in clear weather the distant hump of the Ports. A pleasant mix of rosemary, thyme and wild lavender grows underfoot, and the air smells of resin on warm afternoons.
This is good riding country. From Ulldecona, quiet roads climb in easy bends through olive terraces and pine woods, with enough elevation to give open views and enough corners to keep you busy. Surfaces are generally decent, with a few rough patches after rain, and there is little traffic. Take care on blind corners, where farm vehicles can appear. Spring and autumn are best, and midday heat in summer is considerable.
Fuel and food are easy in Ulldecona itself, and Alcanar, on the coast, with more than ten thousand people, is another good option. Santa Bárbara, a small town to the north, also has the basics. Try the local olive oil, the small, delicate arbequina variety that is typical of Catalonia, either in a shop or as part of a lunch, and drink a lot of water before you head up to the shelters.