The Montsià is a small, rocky massif that rises abruptly above the Ebro delta, the last real mountain before the river dissolves into rice paddies and lagoons, and the hills around Ulldecona are its northern neighbours. From their ridges you can look across the flat delta to the sea, a view that changes from silver in the morning to gold in the evening. Abric d'Ermites V exterior lies about four and a half kilometres from Ulldecona, on the slopes of the Serra de Godall, and carries painting in the Levantine tradition, protected by UNESCO as part of the rock art of the Mediterranean basin in Spain. The ride links it with Valcomuna, a site name that sounds like a village meeting place.
The word exterior in the title marks a painted panel on an open rock face rather than in a deep recess, which means the paintings have had to survive the weather. It is a good reminder of how fragile this heritage is. Rain, sun, lichen and the occasional vandal all take their toll, and the figures have faded over thousands of years. Look, photograph if allowed, and leave nothing.
The country has a gentle Mediterranean beauty: olive terraces, carob trees, scrub of rosemary and thyme, and woods of Aleppo pine. In spring, the ground is bright with flowers, and in autumn, farmers bring in the olives, with nets spread under the trees. The delta itself, a short ride away, is a paradise for birdwatchers, with flamingos, herons and many other species, and for anyone who enjoys a plate of rice cooked with seafood.
The roads from Ulldecona are a pleasant mix of straight and twisty, with easy bends through the olive groves and a few tighter ones as they climb. Surfaces are generally good, with the odd rough patch. Traffic is light except in August. The Mestral, the strong north-westerly, can be a nuisance, especially on exposed ridges.
Ulldecona, with more than six thousand people, has all the services you need, including fuel. Alcanar, a bigger coastal town of over ten thousand, and Santa Bárbara, a smaller one, are alternatives. Bring water for the walk.