Abrantes stands on a hill above the Tagus, the longest river in the Iberian peninsula, at the point where the water leaves the rocky uplands and enters the wide plains of the Ribatejo. It is a town of about thirteen thousand people, built around a ruined castle with a long view over the river, and it was an important fortress guarding the route from Lisbon to Spain for centuries. In 1807, Napoleon's general Junot, who led the first French invasion of Portugal, took the town, and Napoleon rewarded him with the title Duke of Abrantes.
Downstream, the great Templar castle of Almourol sits on a rocky island in the middle of the river, a picture-book fortress built in the twelfth century, and the whole stretch of the Tagus here is lined with castles, old bridges and quiet beaches. Constância, a short ride away, is a little white town at the meeting of the Tagus and the Zêzere, where the poet Luís de Camões is said to have lived in exile. The river has been a highway for centuries, carrying cork, wine and grain to the coast.
The N2, Portugal's famous north-south road, passes through this area, and the ride here is a pleasure. The roads climb through olive groves and cork oaks, with views of the river and the plains, and the villages are quiet and old. Surfaces are generally good, but the older sections can be patched and bumpy, and rain makes the paving slippery in towns. In summer the heat is intense, with temperatures often reaching forty degrees, so ride early and carry water. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, when the light is soft and the air is mild.
For fuel and food, Abrantes has everything, and the sweets are famous. Palha de Abrantes, a delicate egg-yolk sweet made with sugar and cinnamon, and tijolo de Abrantes, a rich, brick-shaped cake, are among the most distinctive pastries in the country, and a small box makes a good gift. Local restaurants serve roast lamb, river fish, stews and plenty of bread and wine.
Walk up to the castle if you have the time. The gardens inside are quiet and shady, and the view over the Tagus and the plains, especially at sunset, is one of the best in the region. It is a good place to stop, take a rest and think about the long road ahead.