This is the road that gives Georgia its reputation for dramatic riding. The Abano Pass, at a little over 2,800 metres, is the only vehicle route into Tusheti, a remote highland region of the Greater Caucasus, and it is a rough, narrow track that clings to mountainsides, crosses streams and passes within a short skid of some long drops. It is not paved. It is not wide. In places two vehicles meeting is a matter of negotiation, and the sign of a good day is making it over the top without a puncture.
The climb from the Kakheti side starts in forest and quickly leaves it behind, rising through beech and birch to alpine meadow and bare rock. The surface is loose stone, ruts and in a few places running water, and the corners are tight hairpins with a very real edge. Ride in the dry, stand on the pegs where you can, and take your time. Local drivers in old Delicas and Mitsubishis do this road daily, often faster than is wise, so keep right and be ready to stop on a blind bend. It is typically open from around June through October; snow closes it for the rest of the year, and storms can shut it earlier.
At the top, the world opens in every direction. Peaks stack up behind peaks, the temperature drops sharply, and there is often a wind that tries to take your lid off. Cloud can pour over the ridge in minutes, so keep an eye on the sky and do not linger if it turns black. The meadows are full of wildflowers in early summer, and the shepherds who bring flocks over this pass each year, a tradition that has gone on for generations, may wave from the slope.
Start with a full tank, carry some spare water and food, and tell someone your plan. Phone signal comes and goes. This is a serious road, not a casual stop, and it repays patience with one of the great mountain views in the Caucasus. Respect it and it will be the day you talk about for years.