Å is the last village on the Lofoten road, at the very end of the E10, and it has the shortest name in Norway. The village is a collection of red and ochre fishing huts, called rorbuer, on rocky shores, with drying racks for cod and a small harbour. About a hundred people live here, and Reine, a few kilometres back, is a little larger. The mountains behind are steep and jagged, and the sea is deep blue, with the outer islands of Værøy and Røst visible on clear days. Beyond Å, the road simply stops, and the sea goes on.
The village is a living museum of the old fishing life. The Norwegian Fishing Village Museum preserves buildings from the nineteenth century, including a cod liver oil factory and a bakery that still makes cinnamon rolls that are famous across the islands. The smell of fish and tar hangs in the air, and the racks of drying cod, which turn to stockfish after months in the wind, are a regular sight from February to May. In summer, the racks are empty, and the village is busy with visitors.
The ride along the E10 through Lofoten is one of the great drives of northern Europe. The road crosses bridges, passes through tunnels and runs along the coast, with views of peaks, beaches and fishing villages. The surface is excellent, but the road is narrow in places, and in summer, caravans and camper vans slow the traffic, so be patient. Weather changes quickly: sunshine can turn to rain in minutes, and wind can be strong on the bridges. The best months are June to August, with the midnight sun, but September has clear air and the first northern lights.
Fuel is available at several points along the route, including Sørvågen and Reine, but not at Å itself, so top up in advance. A cafe at the old bakery and a few restaurants serve fresh fish, including stockfish and cod tongue, a local delicacy. Rorbu cabins can be rented, though they are popular, so book ahead. A walk up the nearby rocks, at the end of the day, gives you a view of the village and the sea, and a sense of having come to the end of the road.